Powerful wi-fi antenna with your own hands. Do-it-yourself Wi fi antenna - step by step instructions

A good gift is one that is made with your own hands (provided that they are sufficiently “straight”). Well, the best router, probably, can also only be homemade. Now there are many components that meet the mini-ITX standard. And in a compact case that you buy in a store, you can assemble a WiFi router with your own hands, working with only one screwdriver, and your head too. Here we would like to list tips that will protect the developer from common mistakes made when choosing hardware components.

Storage device

The task looks like this: you need to assemble a computer consisting of a motherboard with a processor, a case with a power supply, and one expansion card (wired network card). Memory is better to buy the smallest possible amount (1 Gb), and those cases, the design of which does not allow you to install an expansion board, let them remain with the seller. You also need to take care of proper cooling. The instructions for the case may indicate the TDP value of the CPU, for which it is not yet necessary to use fans, but if the TDP of your processor is higher, then the recommendation cannot be neglected. As hard drive it is better to use these options:

• An m-SATA (mini-SATA) SSD, if your motherboard is compatible.
• An Intel Z-U130 class device or its analogues from other companies (if you can find it). Please note that it is not possible to install such a drive on some boards due to mechanical incompatibility.

The most optimal SSD size is 4 GB, and now we'll talk about the choice of processor and board.

Choosing a mini-ITX motherboard

Our requirements would be best met by such a "motherboard":

• The processor is already soldered, its TDP does not exceed 10 watts (the choice of CPU will be discussed later)
• Compatible with m-SATA drives
• Power is supplied to the "motherboard" through a standard ATX connector (now there are power supplies with a capacity of 60-120 watts, which are fanless)
• The PCI-E x1 connector, or better just PCI, is present at least in the amount of one.

You will laugh, but there are no products that meet all the requirements at once, and never have been. There are close options, for example, Intel D525mw (and D525mwv) boards do not support m-SATA, but they fully meet the rest of the requirements. That is, they will have to find an Intel Z-U130 drive, which is very difficult to implement today. In general, use the Yandex. Market”, carefully looking through all the characteristics.

Bought D525mwv, ssd, hdd…

There are cases that appearance resemble a sieve, and they use PSUs of the following format:

Power supply pico-PSU 80Wt

Please note that if the "12V-ATX" connector is on motherboard, then it must be present in the power supply kit. The point of buying such a case is that you can assemble a fanless system. Only here in the instructions it can be indicated that when using a processor with a TDP of 10 Wt or more, a fan is required to be installed. Table with the characteristics of Intel processors:

• D525 - previous generation atom, fast, 13 Wt TDP, perfect Linux compatibility
• D2700 - even faster than the previous one, TDP is 10 Wt, Linux was promised to be “finished” to it (we are talking about integrated graphics)
• N2800 - a small TDP value (6.5 Wt), but noticeably slower than the "old man" D525, although newer than it
• The N2600 is an ultra-low TDP, slower than the Atom N2800, used in thin mini-ITX boards, which would be "too fancy" for our purposes.

We leave the choice to the future owner.

"Network Affairs": WAN, Wi-Fi

It is always advised to make this choice: if you already have an access point equipped with a LAN port, buy a motherboard with two LAN controllers. In other cases, it is better to buy an external access point connected to USB, and a couple of Ethernet ports on the back of the board will be overkill. We talked about the fact that you will connect the provider's cable to the port soldered on an additional network card. And this is no coincidence. The NIC port used as a WAN port may well burn out. In general, a network card connected to a provider should be considered a kind of “consumable” (a joke, but with some truth).

WAN burns down - down with the router?

A couple of commands from Linux

Let's say that Linux is used as the operating system of our router. We hope that the kernel correctly identified all hardware Ethernet controllers. You can configure the connection to the provider, but first you often need to change the MAC address of at least one network card. It would be easy to do this on Windows, but on Linux you have to write a couple of commands.

Network card 100 Mbps

You can change the MAC so that the new value is used only until a reboot. To do this, the controller is first turned off:

• # ifconfig eth2 down//we are configuring exactly "eth2", you may have a different number
• # ifconfig eth2 hw ether 01:02:03:04:dd:ff//new value assigned
• # ifconfig eth2 up//enable controller "eth2".

The new MAC value can be assigned to the network card "forever", more precisely, we will force the OS to emulate the required value all the time. But to perform the latter, it will no longer be possible to get rid of only console commands:

• nano /etc/network/interfaces// you need to open the "interfaces" file for editing.

Now we are looking for lines in the file with the name of the desired controller (we have it "eth2"), and after the line "iface eth2 inet ..." we added the following:

• hwaddress ether 01:02:03:04:dd:ff.

We saved the file, and that's it (after the reboot, "our" value will be used).

In general, we note that MAC emulation is bad by definition.

The statement applies equally to all operating systems, and even to those that are flashed in a "regular" router. Emulation is performed in software, which, at least, takes up unnecessary computing resources (memory, processor time). The best solution is to have the ISP change the value in their MAC address database to what you need. In short, MAC cloning can be used as a temporary measure, but no more.

How to set up Wi-Fi USB?

Many people think that if Linux has such a miracle as Hostapd, then any Wi-Fi adapter can be switched to the "Access Point" mode. In reality, it is not. Almost nothing depends on the connection interface to a PC (USB, PCI-E, etc.), and the main criterion is the name of the chipset and the driver intended for it. If the driver does indeed support "Access Point" mode, this will be displayed on the "wireless.kernel.org" site. Go to the specified page, follow the transition "USERS" -\u003e "Devices".

Website page screenshot

Screenshot of the table with devices

On the page that appears, you need to search for the word "mode". If you see that the AP Mode is indeed supported, then everything is fine. Otherwise, you can force the adapter to become an access point only by non-standard methods (or not at all). Good luck.

Homemade WI-FI antenna

Good afternoon, dear readers of the blog site Most recently, I talked about the possibility of increasing the coverage area by installing . However, not everyone likes this situation, and many simply do not want to give extra money. That is why I decided to describe what a reinforced wifi antenna for a router is with my own hands.

The need to increase the coverage area or achieve a more stable signal comes at the very moment when the user simply cannot connect to a remote part of his apartment or via wireless network several times. Most affordable way To solve this problem, move the wireless router closer to the receiver. However, we are not looking for easy ways and we will make an amplified wifi antenna for the router with our own hands.

Unfortunately, this method only suitable for models with external antennas.

In my arsenal there are several ways to make an improved antenna for wifi router. I will try to talk in detail about three options for home-made wi-fi amplifiers.

Reinforced wifi antenna from the CD box

No matter how ridiculous it may sound, but this option for making an antenna for a router with your own hands really gives a pretty good result. For manufacturing we need:

• Box for discs for 25 pieces
• Waste CD
• Copper wire, 30 centimeters, with a cross section of 2 sq / mm (more is possible, but do not overdo it with thickness)
• Coaxial cable for connection
• Tools (soldering iron, pliers, glue and file)
• Additional SMA connector

Open the box and cut off the guide at a distance of about 20 mm

Then, using a file, we make recesses in the form of a cross, for the subsequent installation of a rhombus.

Thanks to the pliers, we create a double rhombus from the copper wire prepared in advance. The length of each side of a single diamond should not exceed three centimeters. The resulting product can be seen in the figure below.

The ends of the wire should converge in the middle.

At the junction of the ends, we solder the wire and the ends themselves, respectively.

The next step is to push the coaxial cable through the guide hole in the box. Then, using the adhesive composition, fix the resulting rhombus in the grooves of the guide.

For better fixation, I advise you to fix all freely moving parts with glue.

We close the resulting design of the amplified antenna of the wireless router with a lid and use the SMA connector to connect it to the router itself.

On this, our wifi antenna for the router is ready. When I personally decided to test the result, I was very pleasantly surprised. The signal strength in remote areas has increased markedly.

A box of disks can always be replaced with sheet metal. And instead of a plastic guide, use a soldered metal tube. There are a lot of opportunities for improvement.

Do-it-yourself reinforced antenna for a router from a tin can

From the name you can already understand that this method is primitive to disgrace and it is not necessary to spend money on the purchase of additional materials.

In the store, it is enough to buy a can of soda (or beer) and after it is empty, you can start making a home-made wifi amplifier for the router.

First of all, it is worth rinsing and drying it to get rid of the remnants of the contents. Then, using scissors, we pierce the jar in the lower part, next to the bend turning into the bottom, and cut it off. Then, along the entire length, we make an incision until the bend passes into the upper part. After that, along the circumference on both sides of the longitudinal section, almost to the very end, we cut off the cover, but at the same time leaving a small area for the stability of our screen. It will be clearer if you look at the figure below.

For greater rigidity of our design, you can not cut off the bottom of the can, but do the same as we did with the lid, which will not allow the screen to bend arbitrarily.

The next step is to mount the antenna. We put our design on the antenna, and for better fixation we take plasticine. He will not allow all this goodness to move in space.

If your router has not one, but two transmitters, then such an amplifier must be made for each, which will allow you to send a more powerful signal in several directions at the same time.

At first glance, such a device looks very elementary and unreliable. However, the amplification effect makes it clear that simple design can give excellent results.

Unfortunately the two methods above are for directional signal improvements. Such a scheme is suitable for those users who have installed a wireless router in the corner of the room and there is no need to “distribute wifi” to neighbors.

Homemade reinforcing nozzle on the router

Another fairly simple way to strengthen the Wi-Fi signal with your own hands is to use the so-called nozzle. The principle of manufacture is simple to disgrace. You should have at hand a wire with a cross section of 1.5 - 2.5 mm, a piece of cardboard, pliers and scissors.

First of all, we cut several pieces of wire of different lengths from the wire (starting with a smaller one and gradually increasing by 4 mm.). The number of such pieces will depend on which wifi antenna you want to get.

We cut out a piece of cardboard of such a length and width that it does not bend under the weight of the wire. Next, we attach the wire to the cardboard by piercing it in equal areas.

Using scissors, cut out a hole for mounting. The appearance of the resulting structure is very similar to .

Naturally, if your router has several transmitters, then we make such a nozzle for each of them.

This design will really help to increase the coverage area and enhance signal transmission.

All the described methods for making an antenna for a router with your own hands are quite simple and do not require additional skills. However, if any questions arise during the work or a proposal appears to supplement this article, then do not hesitate to leave them in the comments.

To better consolidate the material read, I suggest watching the corresponding video.

Manufacturing.
First of all, you need to make a reflector - this is a metal sheet 450x350 mm (the back of the antenna). It serves to reflect and transmit wifi waves to vibrators and, in combination, serves as the body of the antenna itself.
To do this, take a fairly thick sheet of iron. For example, a case from an old washing machine or a baking tray will do the job. We cut out the desired size with a grinder and clean it from rust. see photo 1 on the right
Let's postpone while aside the blank of the reflector and we will be engaged in the manufacture of vibrators, which will be located on a one-sided fiberglass 1.5 mm. To do this, you need to purchase a vinyl stencil of vibrators with a mounting film on a self-adhesive basis. Such things are done in plotter cutting workshops according to the provided drawing.
Download drawing Delta Ds 2400-21. Copy to usb flash drive. At the cutting plotter company, explain to the manager what the actual dimensions of the drawing details should be!
Before sticking the stencil, remove small scratches and polish the copper surface of the fiberglass with the help of zero and GOI paste. Degrease with a solvent (acetone), the surface! Carefully transfer the stencil onto the copper surface of the fiberglass. Let's start etching the antenna circuit board.
Pour hot water in a suitable size container, add copper sulfate and edible salt in a ratio of 1: 3, mix well and lower the fiberglass down with copper. So that the board does not sink, first stick the foam on the opposite side using double-sided tape. Wait for the complete dissolution of excess copper. see photo 2 on the left.
When the process is over, rinse the fiberglass with clean water, remove the vinyl from the vibrators and tracks. Make a hole for the N-235 TGT connector pin and tin. To protect against the external environment and against oxidation, cover the side of the antenna with vibrators - insulating varnish!
Attach fiberglass to the reflector, make a mark and drill a hole for the n-type connector. Same way make holes for outdoor wifi antenna mount kit, see photo 3 on the right.
Next, we need to connect the reflector and the fiberglass board together. The gap between the reflector and the vibrators must be 9mm.!
Here's how we do it - glue the pieces of 6 mm floor laminate to the reflector with a THIN layer of glue. Before that, evenly place them on the fiberglass using double-sided tape, see photo 4 on the left.
Laminate 6 mm + fiberglass 1.5 mm + glue 1.5 mm = gap 9 mm.
Now we put it in its place and tighten the N-235 TGT connector tightly. After the glue dries, we unstick (holding on double-sided tape) fiberglass from the reflector. We close the laminate and the connector with masking tape, and paint the reflector on both sides with paint for metal for outdoor use. The reflector is almost ready, we attach the design of the external antenna mount.
Next, we apply a thin layer of glue "moment" on the laminate and connect the reflector with fiberglass. Having inserted the contact of the n-type connector into the hole, we solder its tip to the copper track of the vibrators. See photo 5 on the right.
In this example, a protective cover for the antenna is not provided. Instead, Soudal Fix All Crystal hybrid adhesive-sealant is used and applied along the perimeter between the reflector and fiberglass, See photo 6 on the left. Then the front part of the wi-fi antenna is covered with three layers of white acrylic paint. Check the paint first to see if it will shield your antenna. Paint a piece of construction paper and when the paint is completely dry, close the front side of the wi-fi antenna. If the signal does not change, feel free to use this paint. See photo 7 on the right.
Let's check this product in action.
Here are the results of testing a DIY Wi-Fi antenna:
In order to connect the antenna, we need an external USB wifi adapter. This example uses "alfa awus036h 1000mw - Taiwan".
First, connect the adapter, without an antenna, and see what it will show us, and will it even work? As it turned out, alfa found three points. We will focus on the connected point -66 dBm. For half an hour, the signal remained almost unchanged, and this was without any antenna. See photo 8 on the left.
Now, without changing the location, let's check our homemade Wi-Fi antenna by pointing it towards the router. As you can see, the result is very different for the better. See photo 9 on the right. The connected point signal improved from -66 dBm to -45 dBm. There are three more spots.
66-45=21.
It turns out that the antenna gain is 21 dB.

This equipment is a wireless network signal receiver. Many people want to get more powerful performance from this device, but you should not do unjustified actions with devices with a power of 15-20 dBi. Their difference is the maximum area allowed for wide coverage. With the amplification of such an antenna, the range will increase, the coverage area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wireless connection will decrease.

This situation can become a serious obstacle to the comfortable use of a connection to the global network. The wave propagation area will be so narrow that the signal receiver will need to be kept at a certain point without the ability to move.

Of course, if you can’t transfer to the sofa with your phone or go to the kitchen with a tablet, then making a wi-fi antenna at home will not justify itself. It is necessary to weigh very well the need for such manipulation.

Homemade biquad antenna

The pioneers among home-made biquad-type emitters for the propagation of a wireless signal were samples back in 2005. The best modifications of these devices were bi-square, which produced a signal with a power of up to 12 dBi, and bi-square with a value of this indicator up to 14 dBi.

If we take the versatility of the device, it is preferable to install a bi-square design. This equipment will make it possible to preserve the width of the signal opening angle in the event of the inevitable compression of the radiation field.

If a this device correctly positioned indoors, it is possible to ensure reception of a stable signal throughout the territory. Implement any of the existing versions of this type appliances simply.

Details for making a biquad radiator:

• For a reflector, a foil textolite measuring 12.3x12.3 cm is useful;
• Copper wire with a cross section of 2.5 square meters. mm;
• Coaxial cable with an indicator of BC 50 Ohm;
• Connector with N-type output for connecting the antenna itself.

In general, the device will look like squares connected at the corners with diagonals located on the same straight line. Looking at the photo of the wi-fi antenna, you can see a bi-square emitter and a grounded reflector. The device must be connected to the cable with the upper part, and the ground must be connected with the lower part.

The reflector is a piece of highly conductive material. Aluminum, steel or tin can do this perfectly. In some cases, it is easier to use a CD.

How to make a emitter and reflector wi-fi antenna

The manufacture of the transmitter is quite simple. Having prepared all the necessary materials, you can start creating the device.

Step by step instructions on how to make a wi-fi antenna:

Step 1. Check the suitability of all materials. For the estimated frequency of the future transmitter-receiver of the wireless network, the frequency is 2.4 GHz, which requires the use of copper wire 1.8 mm thick. This corresponds to the cross section indicated in the list of materials.

Step 2. It is necessary to prepare the wire and bend it at right angles at a distance of 30.5 from each inflection point. The main thing is that the active element should look like a square figure eight.

Step 3. We measure a distance equal to 29 mm from the edge to the bend of the wire.

Step 4. We constantly control the compliance of the outer diameter of 30.5 cm and make another bend.

Step 5. We perform a couple more internal bends at a distance of 2.9 cm into the inside of the frame.

Step 6. After completing the design of the active element, you should check the compliance with the drawing. There should be a distance of 30.5 mm along the midline.

Step 7. In places that are reserved for the subsequent attachment of a coaxial cable to them, it is necessary to make a solder.

Reflector

This piece of equipment is designed to reflect waves at the rear of the network receiver. With the correct location of the reflector, signal amplification can be achieved by superimposing the amplitudes of the emitted and reflected signals. The effect of interference contributes to an increase in the range of propagation of wireless radiation.

The achievement of this physical phenomenon can be easily calculated. The selected oscillation has a certain wavelength, and when reflected, it is necessary that the waves overlap.

The distance between the reflector and the emitter is defined as the difference of a quarter of the value determined by the design features of the transmitter from a tenth of the wave. From simple considerations, we obtain a value of a quarter wavelength.

For the selected frequency of 2.4 GHz, the wave will be 12.5 cm long. Multiplying the resulting value by 5, we get the value of the desired interval of 1.56 cm.

In order to get the maximum possible gain of 12 dBi from the device you are designing, you need to correctly size the reflector. The maximum gain will be with a 12.3x12.3 cm plate. You can also use large reflectors, but this will not give any effect, but will make the equipment more bulky and heavy.

The above diagram wifi devices Antennas give radiation with a power of 12 dBi, and analogues made on the basis of CDs can provide a maximum signal of 8 dBi due to a limited area.

In addition to the size and type of material for the reflector, it is necessary to choose smooth plain surfaces with good reflective properties. Waves can scatter on any defect, which leads to a partial signal loss.

The collection of the emitter on the reflector can be done by soldering a copper pipe directly to the reflector. You can also fix it with hot glue on a plastic tube. It is necessary to solder the leads to the cable to the emitter frame.

Connecting to a router

It may happen that making such a wi-fi antenna with your own hands will be more of a problem than a financial acquisition. Since the connection of self-made equipment must be carried out through penetration into the router.

For anyone who has the skills to work with network and wireless equipment, the process of soldering on the circuit board to the contact pads inside the router will not be difficult.

You should be very careful and work as quickly as possible with a soldering iron with contact tracks, since they are very thin and can immediately react to a temperature jump by breaking away from the board.

If the original cable has an SMA connector, connect the same type of antenna plug. Such an RF connector is very common equipment, so you can buy it at any specialized store.

WiFi Antenna Testing

By building a biquad antenna to the ideal dimensions, following all of the above guidelines, a signal with a range of 4 km can be achieved.

You need to understand that a lot depends on what you can make a wi-fi antenna so that the indicators are consistent with the theoretical ones. The power of such equipment can reach 12 dBi.

For antennas made from CDs or other scrap materials, a weaker signal is observed, sometimes peaking at 8 dBi. With successful crafts, the directivity and range of the emitter on a CD can reach 2 kilometers.

For a double biquadrate, the limiting power is 14 dBi and the range is slightly more than 6 kilometers.

Such antennas can be used for summer cottages, courtyards of private houses or areas near the garage, since they have an opening angle of 60 °.

Photo of wi-fi antennas

Wireless communication based on WiFi technology is present everywhere today. This is a radio communication standard that provides data transmission at a frequency of 2.4 GHz. It is mainly used to organize an Internet connection between an access point and a subscriber device, however, in the industry it may have other applications.

Most widely used to connect to a wired access point, the so-called. a router with the ability to move within the range of the WiFi signal. The propagation quality of the latter directly depends on the antenna, built-in or external.

The principle of operation of a WiFi antenna

This device works in the same way as the antennas in conventional radios. The only difference is that in the router, the antenna simultaneously transmits and receives signals. High-frequency currents are induced in it, the quality of this process is influenced by the design of the device and the material from which it is made.

The size is of secondary importance, therefore, the current Wi-Fi antennas are quite ergonomic, and also have an aesthetic design.

There are two types of antennas:

• Internal - installed for optimal distribution of the Wi-Fi signal inside the building.
• Outdoor - used outside buildings to increase coverage in open areas.

All antenna devices are also divided, depending on the direction of the signal, into unidirectional and equidirectional. The first ones send pulses only in one direction in the form of a beam and are equipped with a reflector. This design significantly increases the signal strength in a given direction, while it is absent in the rest, which reduces the risk of unauthorized connection to the network.

Unidirectional antennas are the most common design in consumer electronics. All routers are equipped with them, the signal propagates with the same power in all directions.

Convenient for use in the home or office, but due to the unidirectional action, the coverage area is less than that of unidirectional designs.

When passing through physical obstacles, the signal loses some of its power, so reception can be of different quality at different points in the coverage area. For optimal signal distribution through an omnidirectional antenna, the access point should be installed in the center of the room.

Advantages and disadvantages

Modern antennas, including those for the Wi-Fi standard, do not have any drawbacks, which is largely made possible due to the use of modern electronic components.

Moving away from pin telescopic models made of metal, still used today in analog radio reception, has significantly reduced the size, cost and weight. The main components from which antennas are made are plastic, its derivatives, as well as polymeric materials.

Modern design and miniature size allow you to place in any environment or even decorate with interior items. A special connection interface makes the antenna as efficient as possible and minimizes signal loss on the connecting pins. A large selection of models makes it possible to choose the product that best meets the technical parameters of a particular coverage area.

Varieties

The main difference, in addition to the installation location and direction of action, is the dimensions that determine the range and signal gain.

• Pin- can be up to half a meter in height. They create an omnidirectional signal propagation and are used to enhance the reception area from an access point located in a building.
• flat- they are a plate, most often of a square shape, with a thickness of at least 10 mm and sides of about 300 mm. Designed to transmit a signal to another access point and can cover a distance of several kilometers. Mounted outside on a pole or wall.
• Panel internal- are a desktop device with a directional spectrum of action. A special difference is a flat panel with an angle of inclination relative to the base, which allows you to most accurately direct the beam. They are small in size and also provide the possibility of wall mounting due to the length of the wire.

Which antenna to choose

All indoor antennas generally have the same signal gain and differ in design. Therefore, when choosing, the direction of the coverage area, and, accordingly, its area, is of fundamental importance.

1. In large rooms (offices), located separately - omnidirectional models are used if the coverage radius is enough for stable communication throughout the room.
2. In rooms with a large number of partitions and an entry point, located in the outer room, it is advisable to use unidirectional Wi-Fi transmitters.
3. In buildings with a large number of Internet clients if it is necessary to secure the network from hacking, one-way models are used.
4. At home, an omnidirectional antenna is usually used, however, the location of the entry point and the thickness of the baffles must be considered. In older buildings with thick brickwork, significant signal attenuation can be observed already through one partition. In such cases, it is better to localize the beam with a unidirectional antenna.

What to look for when choosing

The focus is on the signal gain and, of course, the brand of the manufacturer. It depends on the coefficient on what area it will be possible to good quality access the network. The accompanying documents for the device indicate this parameter and the corresponding coverage area.

The length of the connecting cord also matters, especially if the antenna is placed above the router, which is usually done.

It is desirable that the connecting plug matches the inlet on the router. It should be borne in mind that when using an adapter, part of the signal strength will be lost.

Overview of the best models

- a device for internal use. It is characterized by one-way action and can be installed on a horizontal and vertical surface, including fastening to the wall of the system unit using built-in magnets.

The connecting cable is 1 m long, has a resistance of 50 ohms and is equipped with an SMA type connector. The gain is 6 dBi. The radiating element is a metal rectangular plate with sides 28x52mm enclosed inside the radiator housing. The price of the device starts from 1200 rubles.

– Antenna for indoor installation with horizontal or vertical mounting. The gain reaches 9 dBi. Connecting cable resistance 50 Ohm, length 1 m. Equipped with an RCA connector. The emitter has a square shape and is located inside a plastic case. The cost of the product is 1600 rubles.

– omnidirectional whip antenna for indoor use. It is characterized by a high gain - up to 7 dBi, which is much higher than that of standard antennas that come with the router. Attaches to a horizontal surface, wall or system unit PC magnets.

When mounted on a wall, it is possible to change the angle of inclination. Equipped with a cable with a resistance of 50 Ohm, 1.5 m long with an SMA type connector. Provides a direct connection to an access point without a cable. The cost of the device will be about 1600 rubles.

– panel antenna for outdoor installation. Provides signal transmission between two access points located at a considerable distance from each other. Able to provide communication at a distance of up to 8 km at a speed of up to 1 Mb / s. With speeds up to 11 Mb / s at a distance of up to 3 km.

The case has protective covering from sealant. The gain reaches 18 dBi. The cable is connected via an N type connector; the length of the cable is selected independently based on the remoteness of the access point. The cost of the antenna is about 10,500 rubles.

How to DIY

Such a device can be made independently, within the apartment it will help to strengthen the signal if it is weakened by a large number of partitions. The design of aluminum beer cans is most popular due to its efficiency and simplicity. You will need:

• Trempel for clothes.
• Two liter aluminum cans.
• Soldering iron, solder.
• Wire 50 Ohm.
• Connecting connector.

Instead of a trempel, you can take a metal-plastic flexible pipe. It is used both for outdoor and indoor installation, because it has an aesthetic appearance, it is not affected by natural factors.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Holes are cut in the bottom of the cans after which they must be put on the lower part of the trempel, after cutting it or passing a pipe through them.
2. The holes in the banks are made of such a size that they fit with an interference fit. and did not move when changing position in space. The pipe must be looped and a hook for fixing on the base should be provided.
3. For cans located on the trempel- it is necessary to clean the places of cable soldering from paint. Then strip the cable, separating the braid and feeder, tin them and solder each to one of the cans. Solder the connector corresponding to the one located on the access point to the other end of the cable.
4. For cans on a metal-plastic pipe- in this case both cans are soldered to the feeder wire. You can make a bridge between them from a wire of the same section by soldering the feeder to one of the cans. The antenna screen will be a layer of metal foil laid under the outer coating of the MP pipe. It is necessary to carefully make a cut, remove the protective film and solder the braid to the foil. This place must be insulated and fixed with adhesive tape to prevent breakage.

Connection and setup

Before connecting, the standard antenna is removed. You should check with the settings of the access point that the maximum level of signal reception is set, if not, then apply individual parameters.